Motorcycle Tourists Ruining the Alps (Dolomites, Pyrenees, etc.)?

Just a footnote before proceeding:  motorcycle tourists are noisy, stinking inhabitants of the various mountain ranges in Europe.  While I can appreciate the allure--seeing what I see from a bicycle, but faster and without all the work (thus allowing the rider to continue their smoking habit), it is a shame that the machines that they use are as loud as they are allowed to be, and emit such an an obnoxious odor as they pass.  Plus most of them think that they are the next Valentino Rossi.  Which doesn't help with the noise since they are usually going full throttle, or as close to it as they can.  Cars?  I can deal with cars as there are far fewer of them and they pass by with little commotion.  Little noise, no notable fumes (the fumes are there, of course, I just can't sense them except on rare occasions).

The motos were most notable on Cormet de Roselend and in Tuscany.  There were none on Grand Colombier, none on Col du Chaussy/Col du Mollard/Croix de Fer, and remarkably few in Italy--probably since we weren't riding the Dolomites.  The Italian mountains I climbed were very difficult and picturesque, but not famous, and thus don't attract the attention of the 2-wheeled motor driven society.

I do not know if anyone in any position of authority is aware of the negative aspects of the moto-tourist crowd.  I don't know where to begin to let anyone know.  I think the best way around it for us, as bicycle tourists is to go to the Alps/Dolomites/Pyrenees, etc., between September and May--forget trying June through August, unless you're willing to endure the incessant lines of motos passing by.

I didn't take any footage this year, but this clip from our 2010 trip to Italy shows what it is like in terms of noise--the smell, of course, doesn't translate.  You will have to add that aspect via your imagination.  This is on the Stelvio Pass from the Bormio side.

Cormet de Roselend 09/06/2015

 

After a day off on Saturday to get over the Grand Colombier, it was time to get back to riding on Sunday.  In 2006 on the trip to France (where I met my wife :-) ) with the Sacramento Wheelmen one of the rides we were going to do was the Cormet de Roselend.  The ride had to be canceled in favor of another route and, ever since then, I have wanted to go back and ride it.  That was one of the reasons for coming back to France to begin with.  So 9/6 was that day.

We left the hotel in St. Jorioz for Albertville later than planned, which became a recurring theme throughout the trip.  Still, we did leave early enough to catch some other activities.  This balloon was as close to the road as the photos show. 

This was the intended loop, 77 miles and about 9800 feet of climbing, according to RidewithGPS.com:

It was a beautiful loop.  In Albertville I got ready while Linda took pictures of me getting ready.  It was almost 10 before I hit the road, the goal had been 9--more of that recurring theme mentioned earlier.

Linda drove in France, she wouldn't drive in Italy--more on that in a later post.  After a few minutes thinking I was headed the wrong way, including a call to Linda back in the car (she was still in Albertville) to ask her to check the map for me, all was good and I could finally relax and just ride. 

I stopped at a bakery in Beaufort looking for what had become an elusive quarry:  apple strudel.  Being in France it shouldn't have been a surprise that I couldn't find it--too far from Germany and Austria.  I bought something that looked kind of like strudel, and it had apples in it, so I was game.  Judgement rendered, below. 

Cormet de Roselend was purported to be one of the prettiest climbs in the Alps.  From Beaufort, it was a nice climb, not too hard.  There isn't a climb in the Alps that could be called anything but beautiful--just degree of beauty varies.  Cormet de Roselend from the direction I rode up would be classified as average Alps beauty.  After descending to Bourg St Maurice and seeing the other side, the ascent from Bourg St. Maurice would be classified as superior, in my opinion.  I should have, in hindsight, turned around after lunch in Bourg St. Maurice, and rode back up the way I came.  It would have ended up about 75 miles, about the same as the loop, plus I would have seen both sides of the climb, including the prettiest side.

My advice to anyone considering a ride on Cormet de Roselend is to either to do an out and back from Albertville to Bourg St. Maurice or, if a loop is necessary, make the loop to take in the Cormet de Roselend from Bourg St. Maurice.  It is a much more beautiful approach, something I hoped the GoPro video would show, but due to the positioning of the GoPro near the handlebars limited the angle of view too much to get a true appreciation for how beautiful that side of the mountain is. 

So. . . I made it to the top of Cormet de Roselend feeling pretty good.  Linda was waiting for me at the top and I put on some warmer clothing for the descent to Bourg St. Maurice.  Here's the obligatory photo op in front of the summit signage. 

In Bourg St. Maurice we stopped at a restaurant for lunch.  I took it maybe a little too easy all day, and that ended up forcing my hand later in the day.  We ended up spending a total of 2 hours downtime.  Not all at once there in Bourg St. Maurice, but that was the bulk of it, the rest of the time was spent checking and re-checking maps to make sure I wasn't lost.

After leaving Bourg St. Maurice, one option was to head back to Albertville via N90 from Bourg St. Maurice to Moutiers before turning north.  I had heard that N90 was a nightmare with heavy traffic and to avoid it if possible.  I planned a route that paralleled the N90, but unlike N90 that followed the valley floor, the options taking you off the N90 meant climbing up the side of the valley.  The climb seemed a lot longer than it was--fatigue no doubt the reason--and ended up in a little town called Longefoy on D88, with a true summit near Notre-Dame-Du-Pre. 

After a twisty descent to Les Plaines, just a few miles from Moutiers, and only about 18 miles from Albertville and closing the loop, I climbed off.  Just too tired in the head to want to keep going.  Even so, the ride was 58 miles and 8,278 feet of climbing.  Pretty impressive climbing is possible in a very short distance in the Alps.  Yeah, in hindsight, again, I wish I'd kept going and could have kept going.  It was getting late, though, and the two hours of non-moving time made the decision for me.

Following are a bunch of other photos Linda took.  I would add some of the GoPro video but, after looking at it, it's not very interesting (due mostly to the angle of view, as discussed above. After having seen the video I wished I had purchased the helmet mount, but I have heard since that the helmet mount is unsteady and makes for poor video, too.  With that said, what good is a GoPro for a cyclist if the bike mount is boring and the helmet mount is shaky?).  

Climbing.

More climbing. 

More climbing.  

Yawn. . . more climbing.  

View of the reservoir.  

Nearing the summit of Cormet de Roselend--this it looking back down the hill.  

This is the bridge outside of Les Plaines where I pulled the plug.  We parked here to load the bike and change clothes.  

Strava Route

9/5 Non-Ride

After my ride up and down and up and down and up and down and up and down Grand Colombier on Friday 9/4 my original plan was to ride the above route, which was a variation of a Tour de France stage from 2013,  I adapted it to start and end at our hotel, Les Tilleuls.  Because of the late start on Friday, and because I'd climbed over 15,000 feet on Friday, and because we didn't get back to the hotel in St. Jorioz until late Friday night--close to 10:00, I was just too wiped out to wake up on Saturday morning to do another 85 miles and nearly 12,000 more feet of climbing.

In hindsight, I might say I regret not sucking it up, getting out of bed and taking off.  In reality, I was just plain tired.  The legs were sore, thought not as bad as I'd feared they would be.  I wish I could have been in a little bit better shape, whatever.  It was just too much to ask so early in the trip.

It would have been a great ride.  I always think that.  Whenever I see a road I think about how it would be to ride it.  How satisfying it would be.  I used to do the same thing when I was still running. 

Rather than drive the entire 85 mile route, Linda and I backtracked in the car and drove to the summit of Semnoz, which would have been the last climb of the day if I'd ridden it, to take a look around. Once we got to the summit of Semnoz, I was kind of glad I'd skipped the ride.  It was a little chilly.  I could have gotten around that, though.  Lot's of riders out on the roads. 

Here's a look back down towards Lac d'Annecy from the top of Semnoz.  

Linda liked this cutout at the top of Semnoz--we had to wait about 10 minutes while two cyclists who were ruining the picture finally finished eating their "fuel" and got out of the way.  That's our Renault Kangoo, with Linda sitting in it, in the background to the left.  

If I'd ridden, I would have been on this road. . . .  I miss riding those roads.  There is something about riding along the roads, through the anonymous and numerous small hamlets and villages that can't be compared to anything else I do, or have done.  It is a unique way to experience the countries we visit.  The vacation and tourist hotspots?  Who needs 'em.

A selfie from the top of Semnoz with Lac d'Annecy in the background.

 Just a shot from the car window as we descended back towards town. After we got back down to lake level we found a nice little lakeside cafe and had some hamburgers, fries, and a Coke.  It was a good day. 

Sunday, September 6, I got in another ride and Linda got in another long day behind the wheel. 

Agriturismo Locanda del Papa; La Spezia Italy

9/17 we drove to our current lodging.  Website: www.locandadelpapa.com/accomodation-cinque-terre.htm

On the drive here yesterday we stopped in Pisa.  All I can say is WOW!  I could have sat there for hours staring at the Leaning Tower of Pisa.  There is a video probably online that tells how they renovated it in the 1990's.  I think it took 10 years to stop it from collapsing.  The exterior is nice and cleaned too; as the buildings in Europe often get dirty from the diesel.  The area around the tower and other attractions has graffiti, and isn't very nice; the river and surroundings are pretty dirty.

We initially parked but we felt anxious about leaving the vehicle for long with all of our stuff, including Art's bike and our laptop.  So he left me near a restaurant not far from the tower and was simply going to move the car to a handicapped spot near where I was waiting!  About 45 minutes later he showed up.  He kept running into one way streets, bus only streets and started getting farther and farther away!!! It was like a labyrinth. . . the harder I tried to get back, the harder I tried to think of a way back, the further and further away I became.  Finally I had to just stop the car and think for a minute--find the Carabineri?  Oh!  I took a picture of the street where I'd started.  I typed the street name into the GPS, making up a street number, and pushed "go" and voila!  I was back in 5 minutes.  That was a horribly frustrating experience.  I had both phones with me in the car.  I had no way to communicate with Linda--no way to call her, text her, nothing.  And she had no way to get in touch with me.   

I kept trying not to worry or start to panic!  My imagination can start running wild..."Date Line" episodes!  So once he fit the vehicle in the space (nice parking work) we used the wheelchair to get to the tower.  We had to get tickets to see the other buildings. The church was free but there are time slots to go in; so we ate lunch back near the car and then saw the church before heading on the road to our lodging.

The obligatory shot.  Convincing, eh?  

 From the highway we could see the mountain that they excavate Carrara Marble from; the whole mountainside is an excavation site...kinda sad.

Just in case you were wondering how some Italians felt about the EU's position on austerity. 

The residence here (Locanda del Papa) is about 400-500 years old, it is kinda musty and damp in our room but it is nice.  The owners, Davide and Roberta, are very friendly and they have 2 female cats that hunt many critters.  One of the cats ate 3 baby bunnies when they were just days old :(

They have several bunnies here in a pen but I think they eat all but a few of them.  Makes me want to be vegetarian.  The hillsides are full of trees and it is very quiet.  The owners have 200 Olive Trees here and 300+ on another piece of family owned property.  The wife, Roberta, makes home made jam which we had at breakfast and it was fantastic.   They gave us a bottle of white wine from a small winery  in the region (Art doesn't like wine and I don't like white wine)  but we thanked them and told them it was great!  We will purchase some of the jam.

9/18 breakfast was great, lots of types of bread and pizza, homemade jam, great coffee.  Art went into the countryside for a ride and I am resting my leg and catching up on the blog.  The other guests here are all in one group and are older couples from France.

In the last few days mosquitoes have been eating Art alive; he looks like he has "chicken pox"!

Inside the Cathedral at Pisa

In the evening after Art returned from his ride (he was lost a few times) we went to the Mediterranean town of Lerici.  Parking was an absolute nightmare; Art dropped me off then was driving for 30 minutes or so and finally found parking and brought me the wheelchair.  I think the evening is the best time to be there as there were fewer tourists out and about.  We took some great pictures of the sunset.

We ate dinner at a local hotel near our lodging and they had the best Pesto on pasta ever.

I Got to Use My Little Wafer Thingy

I finally got to use it at the airport in Nice.  My trip was complete. 

Adventures in the Siena-Tuscany Region

Hello everyone.  We have not had access to wifi at our new "B and B"; the repair service has their own schedule=unknown when it will be repaired!  So we have to go a few miles down the road to the sister hotel to use the wifi in the dining area (away from the beautiful surroundings).  Check out the website at  www.sienaholidays.com; we were staying at  L'Aia.  Therefore, I will give you a brief overview of the last several days and Art will post pictures later.   He is out in the countryside riding and I will spend the afternoon relaxing at our "B and B".  Italian motorists make me nervous, so I don't think I'll be fulfilling my Sag Driver duties today!  The "B and B" folks printed a map for Art and he thinks he has the details down, so that he won't spend the day feeling lost.

Our current "B and B" was  recommended to us by a bicyclist from the Folsom area at home.  He would bring a group here annually for tough training.  We have a kitchen, clothes washing machine, refrigerator and yes freezer with ice cube trays so I can finally ice my knee.  The only negative is the wifi being down.  We have BBC on TV if we want to watch.  This place has a large pool,  table tennis, volleyball, bad mitten, a workout course, swings, and lounge chairs all surrounded by olive trees.  Very nice and peaceful.

On 9/13 we went to the ancient part of Siena for sightseeing.  Locating parking is a nightmare!  We had escalators taking us way way up; however, we had lots of walking up and down all day.  Very challenging on crutches.  There is no way to use a wheelchair here at all.  So I am doing pretty good but my leg is swollen a bit and very sore.  We had lunch by the big plaza (pricey of course).  We talked to a lady from Germany and of course she thinks all Americans are lazy simply because we don't know multiple languages.  I didn't take the time to set her straight!  We had a cup of "hot chocolate" Italian style = warm chocolate mouse for $10 each, YIKES!  Oh well.  It started to rain hard so at least we were under an awning and we watched everyone vacate the city center. 

Of note all over this part of Italy, lots of folks of all ages on scooters. Traffic is just controlled chaos.
While driving our GPS tells us to turn too soon or too late.  The signs are confusing and for biking not well marked (much better in France).  The GPS spent a lot of time "recalculating"!  Our car beeps at us if we are going over the speed limit for the area.  My bad leg is getting sore from applying the brakes for Art!!!

On 9/14  we were going to go to Florence but you need to buy tickets for attractions a few days in advance and we didn't know with not being able to look at wifi at the B&B.  So we made reservations for 9/16  in Florence.

9/14 the weather was rainy off an on so Art couldn't ride, so we went to the ancient part of San Gimignano. We were close to the area and we saw a pedestrian laid out on the road, police were there and ambulance on the way.  Tough time parking again, so Art left me at the top and located a parking garage.  We used Rick Steves' travel book to direct us to the attractions.  Lots of English speaking tourists.  

Next we drove to Volterra. On the way there was a car passing on a solid line and with oncoming traffic.  The oncoming car went as far over as possible and all three cars took the full road.  Crazy!  Lots of American tourists, tour buses, and groups of students. Great views of the region from the top.  I climbed up a skinny old brick staircase to the top; a lot of work but worth it.  Lots of shops and places to eat, definite tourist trap.  We had some excellent gelato.  I bought a hand made horse out of some sort of metal.  The artist works right in the shop that he sells the items of all types.  

Next we drove to Monteriggioni.  I think this is a wannabe attraction.  This is not listed in Rick Steves' book on places to see.  It is ancient and cute, it was nice because there were so few tourists.  Art had a lemon cake snack and we just took a look around.  There was one restaurant with stuffed Pigeon on the menu for $25 euros.  Lots of pigeons in the area, I guess the unlucky ones end up on the dinner plate.  The town hosts concerts during the year.  You can look it up at info@monteriggioniturismo.it

We saw a lot of country side today.  The higher altitudes have lots of trees but the further south there are big rolling hills but fewer and fewer trees as you go south.  Our host at the B&B said you cannot build new homes on the land in the region  You can buy property and do renovations on existing homes but it all has to look like the old homes.  All in all the driving and parking situation was getting to Art; me too as a passenger constantly applying pressure with my right foot to the floor as if I could apply the breaks for him and making my knee sore!!!

9/15  We slept in and after breakfast came to the Hotel to look at email and Art found that our Cap 1 Visa had fraud charges.  So he had to spend time getting the card cancelled.  It is our backup card for the trip, so we are still fine. This is about the 5th time this year our Cap 1 has had fraud.

Art went on a bike ride and had a good time; didn't get too lost.  He talked to a woman at a shop in a small town and she is a cyclist too, so she gave him info about his route.  I enjoyed the rest at the B and B.  I soaked my swollen leg in the pool.  It actually needed to be a bit cooler but all in all it was refreshing.  I saw a dead frog in the pool.  At first I thought it was alive, then I thought it was possibly fake.  Stefano at the "B and B" told me frogs get in the pool and can't get out and die.  So it was in fact a dead frog.  Poor thing.  We had a good dinner at a local restaurant "Fontabecci".  Very busy place; the owner is one of the waiters.  There was a strange dynamic between he and a young waitress; not sure if they were related but he was highly critical of her.  She was nice one minute and understood English and then didn't the next minute...very strange!

9/16 we went to Florence by bus.Very hot and humid all day, the weather report said rain but it did not rain- they are not better at forecasting than at home!  We only had tickets for the Ufiti Museum.  It was overwhelming.  We walked around the area and took pictures. We took a picture of chalk art on  the street; the two artists drew the Mona Lisa.  There were two old women hunched over holding out a cup for money and moaning.  We also saw a man sitting on a sidewalk begging; he had no ankles or feet.

At  lunch we ordered Coke and the waiter said, "Pepsi, the same ok?".  I  said "no, it is different".  He brought Coke, but we also ordered water which he never brought and then tried to charge us for it....

 Way too many people for our taste! I wanted to go to a particular church to hear Gregorian Chanting; however, it was too late in the day to locate the bus and it was way too far for me to walk.  My leg was very swollen and I was done for the day! So we took the bus back and it had no AC, a very hot and stuffy ride back to Siena.  We ate dinner at the same place as the night before and it was very good and less crowded; more tourists than locals.

9/17 our last breakfast at L'Aia.  Anna, one of the owners, showed us around the garden of their family home.  The brother, Stefano lives in one home, Anna lives in one and their parent's live in another and they are all connected to the "B and B".  The garden was beautiful and she told us of family history with the property.  She gave us a ceramic wine cork to take home.  It is beautiful.

Siena

On 9/11 when we were traveling to Siena I ate something bad at lunch in the town of Verona.  As I was eating I was thinking something didn't taste right and boy was I right.  That night after dinner I tossed cookies :(.

In Verona I missed a photo op:  a clothing store named Prozak!!  We attempted to get cash from BNL as it is a  B of A affiliate.  Even though we called before leaving on the trip they blocked our transaction for cash (often if we pay cash for lodging there is a discount).  The instructions were to call from a land line!  Good luck with that; Art was able to do a chat online with the bank that night from the B&B and all was well.

The Italians often drive over the line in both lanes, very interesting.  Bad eyesight? Or they think they own all of the road.  Our license plate is from France and is red-denoting rental I guess.  We stand out in any case!  We have noticed our rental car has no internal door locks; not sure why.

The son of the owner of the B&B Podere II Pero speaks pretty good English and has been very helpful.  The B&B is very beautiful and is surrounded by hills and trees that hide the highway in the bottom of the valley.  All we hear is traffic 24 hours a day- it is like being backed up to I-80 or HWY 50.  Can't leave the windows open at night.  There is also a dog that barks constantly up the hill.  During the day a group of dogs barks all day.  Not a bid deal in the day but I was recovering and napping most of 9/12 from the food poisoning.

On 9/11 before we went to dinner I needed an item at a pharmacy.  There are pharmacies with Red Crosses on the sign and Green Crosses on the signs.   A man in the store was trying to be helpful with English and told the clerk the price was $12 euro (for 8 pills).  I noticed she looked shocked, I asked her the price again and she stood firm on the price the man told her....highway robbery.   On 9/12 I was driving in the foothills attempting to locate a new  B&B while Art was riding.  The pharmacy with the green cross sold me a box of 30 pills, I asked for generic and they were $4.50; nice honest folks.

We had two great dinners at a local restaurant in the hills--Montalbucchio.  The place is constantly busy.  Oh ya dinner is after 8 pm here.  A lot of places are closed in the early evening.

9/12  the day started with a somewhat comical breakfast.  The Italians put yogurt on cereal and not milk.  The only milk was in a sippy carton.  So we tried to open it to make it work for putting on our cereal and we kept spilling it on the table and trying to be discrete!!!  Art also had difficulty getting the cereal out of the dispensers.

Art went on a ride for about 5 hours.  He was constantly unsure of the route map and had to keep stopping and trying to find someone to ask and going back on the route.  He added a few kilometers to the ride with all of this!  At one point he almost called me to have me pick him up.  Every time he would call and check the phone would startle me!

9/13 we will move to a country side B&B, nice and quiet.  We will tour the old ancient part of Siena and on 9/14 a day trip to Florence.

We will attach photos and videos this evening.
Happy Birthday Mom.   It is1:14 am in California and it is 10:14 here.