Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Bass Lake Powerhouse Double Century 2010

Okay, so it's not all Europe. With this entry I make a decidedly domestic turn by describing my double century of October 9, 2010.



Linda and I drove to Clovis Friday night, October 8, to be there in plenty of time to rest up and ride the Bass Lake Powerhouse Double Century hosted by the Fresno Cycling Club on Saturday morning. This was my second time to the event, Linda’s first. It was particularly important for Linda because, if completed, it would be her third double century of the year and, thus, she would be a “California Triple Crown” winner:

http://www.caltriplecrown.org/

I’ll let Linda describe her full story elsewhere. We woke up at 3 a.m., hoping to be at the start around 4. Linda was a little nervous about the midnight cutoff time for completion so wanted to start as early as she could. Despite our best efforts, we headed out a little later than we hoped. We stopped by Denny’s for our traditional pre-ride meal: the trusty Grand Slam (original). Not sure of the calorie count, carbs, protein, etc., but it’s served us well these past two years (I don’t eat Denny’s any other time).


We arrived at the ride start at a little after 4 a.m. and we should have started at around 4:15. We went through equipment checks prior to having left our house Friday morning and again in Clovis on Friday night. We tested Linda’s light Friday night. Check. I had inflated tires Friday morning before we left. Check. Once at the ride start, we got the bikes out. Linda plugged her light in, flipped the switch. Nothing. Unplug it, plug it back in. Nothing. Nite Rider. Bah! Stupid thing. I know the battery was fully charged—it was charged Thursday night. I saw it plugged in and charging. I have no idea what happened.


Next, I take my bike out of the back of the car and set it on the ground. Instead of the solid, reassuring, almost bouncy feedback when the rear tire makes contact with the ground I got the tell-tale thud of a flat tire. What the. . . ? I just pumped that thing up!! I hadn’t ridden it since the Sunday before. The tire was only about 5 pounds low on pressure when I pumped it up. It didn’t make any sense. It was completely flat. How do I get a flat tire without riding the thing??


Not exactly the start to the day that inspires confidence. I repaired the flat. Linda left a few minutes before me with her helmet light only. She bought this AMAZINGLY bright flashlight (Fenix PD30—the thing’s awesome) that she intended to use later, after dark, just to be sure, in case her Nite Rider used all its juice. Without the Nite Rider, the flashlight was her intended light for the evening. The only problem was she wasn’t sure how long the batteries would last. She chose not to use it in the morning to conserve the batteries. She started about 4:36, I left after her at 4:57. Once I caught up I rode with her using my headlight as a guide, the Mity Cross 350 (now that’s a fine light) until the sun rose, which worked out to be right about the same time we reached the first rest stop at around mile 35.5.


The morning temps were tolerable without arm/knee warmers, though still cold enough to affect my ability to squeeze liquid out of my water bottles. I hate that feeling—trying to will the hands to work, but they won’t cooperate. Oh it’s completely safe, I can still hold the handlebars, shift gears, use the brakes. I just can’t squeeze a water bottle.


The first 73 miles of this double are almost perfectly flat. Kinda dull most of the second half of that. Lot’s of pace lines these first miles. There was a tandem which, of course, was followed by dozens of suckers-on. For myself, I choose to ride alone, sans pace lines. If it’s true that a rider expends up to 20%-30% less energy riding in a pace line then it appears to me (assuming the lower 20% figure) that pace line participants effectively ride only 160 miles (20% of 200 = 40 from 200 = 160). Personally, I figure if I signed up for 200 miles, I want to ride 200 miles. I need to feel I’ve accomplished it on my own. (I-Linda usually can’t hang on to a pace line so that isn’t an option for me!!!).


I suppose I could do these doggone things faster if I rode pace lines; but, for now, I’ll ride my own rides. Plus, the pace lines can be downright hazardous to your health, what with unfamiliar riders, inexperienced riders, etc.

As Linda and I were getting ready to leave the first rest stop, the mass starters that left at 5:15 were arriving in a big ol’ pack. I left the first rest stop far enough ahead to where one small group caught me about 12 miles later, then the big tandem-led group caught me about 6 miles from the 2nd rest stop.


One fellow picked up my tail as I passed him and he rode with me a while. We had a chance to close in on the first pace line that had passed us and he suggested we take off after them. I told him, “no thanks, I ride on my own.” He must have thought I was some kind of idiot. Must have sounded like one, I admit. He took off after them but gave up after a few minutes and fell back in behind me where he stayed for the next 10 miles, or so, until the tandem train went by. He latched on to them and away he went, with probably fifty other people.


We all met up again at the next rest stop (along with the first pace line, too). It’s a hassle letting these pace lines go by because, for a few moments, you’re going the same speed. I do everything I can to dropout of the draft, off to one side, or the other, wishing they’d get past so I could get back to my own thing.


I did see one crash, but it didn’t involve the pace lines. On Piedra Rd, just after my first rest stop, there was a group of 3-4 other folks coming the other direction (very early starters on their way to the 2nd rest stop). All of a sudden, one of the guys is down in the road rolling around. I don’t what he did, I think he must have clipped the back wheel of the woman in front of him. He was up quickly and there were 4-5 other riders there to assist. I stopped to be polite, but there was nothing one more guy standing around gawking at him was going to do, so I continued on. I saw him later on at the post-ride meal—he did finish looking none the worse for wear. . . a rip in his shorts, bandaged, blood soaking through. Poor guy.


After the first rest stop the climbing began. The vast majority of this ride’s estimated 9400 feet of climbing comes in the 87 miles between rest stops #2 and #5 (or between miles 73 and 160). None of the early climbing is particularly strenuous (depending, of course, on how fast you’re trying to climb it). The climbs around Pine Flat Lake are pretty tame. The roads near Pine Flat Lake are most interesting because of the tarantulas seen crossing the road. I counted four—I missed them all (on purpose). I didn’t need tarantula guts all over my frame or wheels or, heaven forbid, on ME.

I saw Garth Powell, the fellow that I followed blindly the wrong way in the 2009 edition cutting off 23 miles. I made a comment to him asking him if he’d stayed on course this year. I don’t think he heard me or, if he did, he ignored me. The guy never admitted to having shortened the course. I heard him after the ride Saturday night saying how his time was way off last year’s and how he was just so tired at a certain section. “Sometimes it just works out that way.” Well, yeah, dipstick, you rode only 177 miles last year!!


Honestly, I don’t care much for the scenery around Pine Flat Lake. Once we steered away from the lake towards Tollhouse and Auberry, the scenery improved, for me, significantly.


After the lunch stop in Auberry the heart of the climbing came in. Following a fabulous descent to Kerckhoff Lake the most significant climb up Powerhouse Rd to North Fork was on hand. It has steep stretches, probably 10%-12%, but these weren’t too long. The weather cooperated fully. I imagine this area can be an oven midsummer—minimal shade, canyon, etc. We were lucky to have temps in the upper 70’s-low 80’s I’d guess. I don’t know the total length of the climb. . . 5 miles? 6? I was happy to see it end at North Fork.


Next was a relatively simple looking climb on Road 274 to Pines Resort on Bass Lake. This 7-8 mile stretch was my traditional “what-the-heck-am-I-doing-here”, “why-am-I-doing-this” moment that comes up at some point in almost every double I’ve done. I don’t know why here. . . after the initial mile, or so, it wasn’t steep, and it was occasionally downhill here and there. I was just a little limp, counting the pedal strokes. At one point I thought I was doing okay because I could see I’d closed the gap on the guy that had left before me from Auberry. As soon as I’d caught sight of him, though, he almost as quickly faded into the distance as I faded a bit. I made it, though. I felt much better thereafter, having been able to eat and drink a bit.


The climb back out of Kerckhoff Lake on Powerhouse Rd. back to Auberry was the last significant climb and came after the huge downhill that we’d come up earlier. Linda was worried about going back up to Auberry from this direction, much as I felt last year after having gone down and then fearing what it was going to be like to go back up on the way back. It’s not nearly as hard as the impression it gives. It’s steady, only one or two steep portions. Piece of cake.


On the way down Powerhouse, en route to this final climb, Linda’s and my paths crossed. I figured I’d see her coming up so I was on the lookout for her. I called out when I saw her, downshifted to turn back up hill, and she stopped to talk for a moment. She was feeling good, looking good. A little nauseous. After a few moments, we continued on our ways. Linda had spoken with Scott Halverson of the Quackcyclists in the morning at one of the early rest stops. She mentioned her Nite Rider situation and Scott saved her with an extra light he just happened to have with him that he loaned to her. So she was set for nighttime. She had her helmet light, her Fenix flashlight, and Scott’s loaner. The flashlight, by the way, had a clip on it, similar to what you’d see on a pen, that allowed her to clip the flashlight, pointing the right direction, to bag she carries on the front of her bike.


A little ways down from where I saw Linda I came across another rider sitting in the shade, on the ground, next to his bike. I thought there was a mechanical issue, so I slowed to ask if everything was alright. He said he was feeling what he feared were the early signs of heat stroke. He said he’d been sitting there for 15 minutes trying to gather his wits. He said he’d been waiting for a SAG vehicle but none had come by. I asked if he was having any cardiac issues we needed to worry about, he said no. I told him that I’d flag down the next SAG I saw, and let the folks know at the next rest stop in Auberry that rider #310 was having trouble and to watch out for him. I did have a SAG pass me, which I flagged down. He was coming from the direction where #310 was sitting and the driver said he hadn’t seen anyone. He drove back once more to look, nothing. He drove ahead to let the Auberry staff know what was up.


Once back at Auberry for a short refueling, the last 40 miles raced by. Except for just two little hills that I can recall, maybe three if you count the little hill on Auberry Rd after leaving the last rest stop, it was all downhill or flat. After 160 miles, though, these little hills are sappers. Thankfully quite short. Anyway, I was feeling pretty good and was having thoughts to simply skip the last rest stop. I did stop briefly to give my number and have a small snack. I wanted to finish and it was just a short 15 miles to the end. I made pretty good time, considering.


I passed the point where I flatted last year—so far the only flat I’ve had during a double in 11 finishes (I don’t count the one from the morning because it happened before I’d even started. Looking at the tube afterwards, it appears the base of the stem weakened and a hole was formed. Maybe I bent it too hard to one side, I don’t know).


I was in at 5:58 p.m., 13 hrs 1 minute total time, 12 hrs 1 minute riding time, 16.7 mph avg. I still need to figure out how to cut down on rest stop times. An hour seems like a long time.


Linda called me at 8:41 p.m. from the Auberry rest stop, on her way back, 40 miles to go. At first I feared whether she’d make the midnight cutoff time, forgetting how fast the final 40 miles are. She rolled in at somewhere just after 10:30 p.m. Great ride. Made her “Triple Crown”. Finished up the last 40 miles in under 2 hours, including 1 stop. She had riders lined up behind her because of the brightness of her flashlight.


Who crossed the finish line with Linda? #310, Steve Robenalt from Cameron Park, CA, just down the road from us. He told me at the finish that after he spoke with me earlier in the afternoon he thought he was feeling better and figured he’d at least start walking. He saw the same SAG guy I saw drive up, stop, ask how he was doing, and told him he was fine. Steve said that after a few more minutes he was feeling better still, got back on the bike and kept going.


Monday, September 27, 2010

Rating the Accommodations - Garda, Italy

July 4-6, 2010, 3 nights.

Hotel Giotto di Lorenzi Ezio
Via Carducci, 17
37016 Garda

http://www.holidaycheck.co.uk/hotel-Travel+pictures_Hotel+Giotto-ch_ub-hid_35146.html

We don't even have any of our own photos of Hotel Giotto. Not because there was anything wrong with it. It was actually pretty good. I guess by this point we were tired, and a little disappointed with the whole Lake Garda vibe.

Supposedly, Lake Garda's considered Italy's most beautiful lake. It may be one of the largest, but Lake Como's certainly its equal in terms of beauty. And we didn't even see Lugano or Maggiore.

Our enthusiasm was dampened (melted) by the persistent heat and humidity after we'd dropped down from the Dolomites. In hindsight, we should have remained in one, or several, of the northern visits a day, each, longer--Bormio, Arabba, Cortina. Maybe even Lake Como.

So, the next trip should be in September after the July and August invasions. May is too early as you run the risk of some of the high famed passes being closed to snow. Stelvio and Gavia were barely opened in time for our visit. Gavia had to be cleared of snow for the Giro and we heard that the Stelvio had been opened just a week before our arrival. In France, too, this holds true. The Galibier was closed due to lingering winter snow drifts. By September all the prior winter's snow is long gone. That's not to say you don't run the risk of new snow, but it's a bit early for much of that to be happening. Although I will say that a Facebook entry today, September 27, 2010, from our hosts in Bourg d'Oisans, the Coldray's, said that it snowed there in the last few days.

Anyway, I'm off topic.

We found Hotel Giotto by visiting the local tourism office. They were extremely helpful. A nice English-speaking woman helped us narrow down what were looking for. We paid a 10 euro fee, which was applied to our hotel fees, and she found us several possibilities. It worked out very well.

The hotel itself was nice, it had AC (that was an absolute requirement), it was clean and had a nice view of the lake and of Garda itself. The breakfast was one of the more disappointing. There was plenty to eat, the choices weren't as good as we'd become accustomed to.

The staff was nice enough, though almost impossible to communicate with. We managed to get through without any controversies or problems until it came time to check-out and pay. They accepted cash only, so we had to make a walk down to the ATM to draw some funds. Not a big deal.

They had a computer with internet access, but it wasn't readily available. There was an internet cafe nearby that we used a few times, it was expensive considering the speeds--atrociously slow. Seemed to work only half the time. It was exasperating.

I documented one of the two rides we did in Garda, Peri to Fossi. The only other ride we did was out to Sirmione, which was on the tip of a narrow peninsula that jutted into the lake from its southern shore.

We left Pagnano for Lake Garda on a Sunday figuring that the crowds would have been dying down on a Sunday afternoon. Wrong! The road into the area was bumper-to-bumper with cars all trying to get down to the lake. I assume it was just to be able to get into the water, because the lake did not offer any respite from the heat and humidity we'd encountered since coming south from Cortina d'Ampezzo.

Traffic, people, heat, humidity. Lake Garda failed to impress. It was pretty, summer's not the time to go. And the traffic! Oh, the traffic!! Man. The ride we took to Sirmione was a nightmare. A constant flow of traffic, fast-moving, narrow roads, no shoulder, back-ups in the towns created near chaos. The roads were so narrow that when there were back-ups there wasn't enough room to get by on the right. Most Italian riders would ride on the left--exposing themselves to oncoming traffic and left turners from both directions. We didn't see any accidents, though.

The portion of the lake we rode was not a cyclist's paradise. It's a big lake. Maybe some of the other portions of the lake are better. My guess is that anything on the shoreline was the same and you would need to head up into the hills away from the coast line to find decent riding (like Peri to Fosse--although that required a drive of almost an hour to get to the ride start--though you could certainly start from further away if we'd had more gumption and knowledge of the area). To be fair, the same held true at Lake Como. It was cooler at Lake Como, though, and they have the Tour of Lombardy!

Friday, September 24, 2010

A Few Words About Venice



The Rialto

We visited Venice on Friday, July 2, 2010.

A few words?


Teaming with people even on a slow day.

Hot (sure, could have been avoided by visiting sometime between October and April).

Humid (ditto).

Dirty (not much you can do about this one).

Graffiti (not much they are doing about this one).

Green, putrid water (what can you do about this one?).

The gondolas reminded my of the "Small World", or any other ride, at Disneyland (without the horrible music). Gondolas lined up nose-to-tail--at who knows how much a pop, $100?--as if they were on those little rails that you see at amusement park rides. I almost expected to see some young kid in a park uniform queuing up the folks in turn as they stood in line to board the boats.



Take a look at the famed Rialto Bridge. . . . One of the iconic structures of Venice. It's a run-down mess. Many of the buildings around Venice are in sad shape.

The water smells. The city smells. People are everywhere. The shops are tourist traps selling over-priced junk.

Oh, but they had a Burger King!

I absolutely, completely failed to see the romance in Venice. It's a decaying, sinking, sad mess. We saw dozens--and there are certainly hundreds--of smaller towns throughout Italy with as lengthy a history and far more charm than Venice.

I know I said in an earlier post that I'd provide a sentence about Venice, and I later mentioned I'd have three sentences on Venice. I couldn't express my disappointment with our foray to Venice in so few words. The train ride from Castelfranco Veneto to Venice and back was fun. It was only about an hour, or hour and a half. Pretty inexpensive, too. There's not a better way to get there and back than the way we did it--taking a car down there, I hear, is troublesome and not worth the hassle (and prone to break-ins).

I can say I've seen it, and I can say I have no need or desire to go back.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Rating the Accommodations - Casa Pagnano, Pagnano Italy




After two days, Monte Grappa was finally visible!

Casa Paganano from the front--take the stairway in that little recessed area to the 2nd floor and there's the room!


Casa Pagnano, Pagnano, Italy
Via Vallorgana 22
Pagnano d'Asolo, Italy

July 3, 2010, one night.

http://www.casapagnano.com/

After spending Thursday and Friday evenings at the nice B&B al Lauro in Lauro we had to clear out on Saturday morning and find new digs for Saturday night. The B&B had booked full beginning Saturday night, which they warned us about when we first spoke.

Linda and I decided to ride Monte Grappa on Saturday morning, after which we'd search for a new location for Saturday evening. It always sounds so easy when you're discussing it--it turned out to be another search full of dead-ends, scary looking places or, worse, no air conditioning.

Making matters worse was the fact that Linda and I couldn't shower after our ride--we toweled off as best we could, changed into some normal clothes, and drove around with tourist guides and the GPS. We were more comfortable than if we had remained in our riding clothes, but given how hot we'd gotten, how much we'd sweated, and how dirty we felt, it was a miserable few hours.

We looked at a few places close to Lauro that looked very nice from the outside. One was full. This was one that the owners of B&B Al Lauro had suggested. The owner there didn't speak English, but it sounded like he said he didn't have a room. That's what I assumed--we called from the parking lot.

The other place looked like it had just had a major renovation and looked very nice from the outside. We called to make sure that they had a room available and the English-speaking desk clerk said they did. We stopped by to take a look at the room, which was a little more pricey than we'd been paying or really wanted to pay, but we were getting desperate. This place, despite all it's nice features and attractive looks lacked one crucial requirement: air conditioning. We thanked the young woman and left.

I don't know, exactly, how many places we looked at, drove by, called, and disqualified but it was at least a half-day affair. We saw a lot of this little region. We could have given directions to almost anywhere in the vicinity after three days of riding our bikes and driving around this place.

Anyway, finally, we called a place in the guidebook, almost on a whim, and were rewarded with an English-speaking voice of the son of the innkeeper. We almost didn't call the place because we'd seen the address in the guidebook, found it via GPA, and it looked like a dump. It turns out that there are two addresses with the same number on the same street--one north of town, one south of town. I'm sure there was more to the logistics of this address issue, but that's how it seemed to us. Turns out the place we were interested in finding out about was up the road a bit.

I have to admit that when we first drove through the gate and saw the house we thought there'd be chickens in the kitchen and straw on the floor. It looked old and, well, used. It certainly was rustic, no matter how you viewed the exterior. The home had been around a while. The owner didn't speak any English, but her son was there to translate for us. The price was very reasonable and it had an air conditioner!!



Casa Pagnano had two rooms to let, we took the smaller of the two to save a few Euros and since we were going to be there for just one night. The room was plenty comfortable and nicely appointed. The owner had gone to some trouble to decorate with a rustic feel, I suppose what we'd call here country casual, or whatever it is. It looked rustic and had a very nice atmosphere about it--but everything was nice, i.e. it wasn't just a bunch of old junk lying around. And the AC!! It was just outside our room and there was a window along the top of the wall where it met the ceiling that could be opened to let the cool air in. It was wonderful.

Comfortable rooms, clean well-appointed bathroom en suite. An excellent deal for I thought it was 50 Euros, although I see the website says 60 for a double and 40 for a single. In any event, it was a good deal for an air conditioned, comfortable room.


Our AC unit, white, above the door. . . .

There was no covered parking, but no big deal. The house was a a hundred yards, or so, from the street behind an electric gate. Plenty safe.

The breakfast on Sunday morning was terrific. Linda said the coffee provided was the best she had during our trip. Plenty to choose from and the owner (wish I could remember her name!!) was anxious to make sure we had enough.

They had a nice German shepherd and a cool cat. Chickens were close by, but the rooster wasn't too close.

They had cable TV where we were able to catch some of the World Cup and, more impressively, the Italian TV carried, live, the Maratona dles Dolomites bicycle gran fondo. They take their cycling seriously in Italy. It was sooo cool to see.

Prcing: very good
Staff: we liked them a lot, just couldn't communicate much.
Food: Excellent--best coffee on the trip
Location: if you're there to visit Monte Grappa, Treviso, take the train to Venice from Castelfranco Veneto, etc., it's a very good place to be. Asolo's a nice town to visit and I'm quite sure there were quite a few places of interest that we just didn't figure out were there. The Gran Fondo Pinarello's run in July (that's gotta be miserable with the heat; I wonder why they don't run it in, like April or September). They do some time trials and other organized rides involving Monte Grappa, Monte Boldo's not far away. . . there's lot's of good riding if you carefully choose the time of year you're going.

No internet service.

Recommend? Sure! Don't judge it from the exterior's appearance, it's really quite nice inside. The owner's very nice. The log book of visitors consisted primarily of eastern Europeans and Italians. We were the only Americans (North, Central, or South!) to have visited.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Rating the Accommodations--Lauro Italy






Monte Grappa's hiding in among that fog somewhere.
http://www.beballauro.com/EN/index.html

B&B Al Lauro
July 1 - Jul2, 2010--2 nights

After leaving Cortina d'Ampezzo, a move which, in hindsight, was premature, if needed at all, we headed towards Treviso with our main goals of visiting the Pinarello factory and the Pinarello store and to make a visit to the great city of Venice (worthy of a sentence all by itself!).

Perhaps we should have done a better job of investiating the weather in northern Italy in June and July. Perhaps we would have adapted our schedule to have stayed in the mountains a few days longer.

It was dreadfully HOT, and HUMID to boot. I've been in Mississippi in July after a thunderstorm. This was not that bad. But being from California it was far more uncomfortable than we're used to with our "dry" heat. Like I said, if we'd known we would have stayed at altitude.

Driving around Treviso was an interesting mess. The poor Garmin was next to useless. We looked all over for the Tourism office with, and ultimately without, the GPS. We weren't terribly impressed with any of the lodging options we were seeing there. So we opted to move out towards Castelfranco Veneto, which I'd seen in earlier research on the area around Monte Grappa.

Oh, but first, we did make it to the Pinarello factory in Treviso. We arrived on a Thursday, and it was closed for inventory through the following Tuesday. So much for checking for possible conflicts--I'd researched their operating hours, local festivals, and tide charts and I thought we had it clear. Didn't think of inventory. The building itself was nice, and we could see stuff through the windows and they had a nice display of bikes in the front of the building. We made an appointment to come back to the factory the following Tuesday but, in the end, we blew it off and didn't return to Treviso after leaving and looking for lodging north of town.

We went to see the Pinarello store, too, and it was a little bit of a letdown. It wasn't much bigger than, say, a run-of-the-mill strip mall location. Maybe 30 feet wide, 100 feet deep. They had a few bikes lined up, and clothes all over the place. But it wasn't Charlie and the Chocolate Factory kind of stuff. We weren't awestruck and overwhelmed. It was just a bike shop, I guess. The one thing I did learn about was Passo Boldo


On the wall of one of the dressing rooms was placed a picture of Fausto Coppi racing up Passo San Boldo in one of the Giri di Italia. It's an awesome looking piece of engineering. Look carefully--the hairpins are tunneled into the mountain at each end. I don't know how difficult a climb it was, but it looked awesome. I wasn't able to do any research on its location in time to be able to visit it. It was not very far from Treviso, though.

So. . . lodging. After leaving Treviso we arrived in Castelfranco, located the Tourism office only to discover it had closed at noon that day. Not knowing what else to do, we continued looking at different cities and towns nearby and ended up in Asolo--a name I'd recognized from the 2010 Giro. The race passed through Asolo on their way up Monte Grappa on Stage 14 before finishing in Asolo.

We found a Tourism office there in Asolo, and a reference to some guy that owned a clothing store nearby. He showed us the room and we were completely frightened of the man and his room. He was kind of creepy. The rooms were dark and hot. We didn't see any immediate relief from the heat in the form of AC and, this being Thursday night, he told us the cleaning lady wouldn't be back until the following Monday. Nuh-uh. We told him we had to check out one other place and we'd get back to him and then we got out of there, and out of Asolo, as quickly as we could.

Thereafter, we weren't sure what we were going to do. It was beginning to look like we might really end up spending the night in the car. I'd remembered seeing the name of a little town not far from Asolo, it had shown up in the hotel/B&B listing we'd picked up at the Asolo Tourism office--B&B Al Lauro. We thought maybe "Al Lauro" was a guy's name, but it was in reference to a little hamlet called Lauro and "B&B Al Lauro" translated into Lauro B&B.

As we approached Lauro, we saw several farm houses, none of which looked the least bit inviting as a B&B. We could see a house down the road that looked newer and, as we approached it, the address numbers were coinciding properly. Then, there it was--a SIGn--B&B Al Lauro. Just as we were driving up, the owner was stepping out the front door. If we'd been 5 minutes later he would have been gone and our search would have had to continue. A GREAT family, though. It turned out to be a terrific find.

The only bad thing was they could only keep us Thursday and Friday nights, they were booked for Saturday. Which led to another search for a place to stay on Saturday afternoon.

In any event, you know, I don't even think we learned the owners' names. There are a couple of names mentioned in the website, but I'm not sure which was appropriate. Whatever their names were, they were very nice, very nice, pleasant people. They built the B&B after the owner's mother died. The family lived in the house next door (about 200 yards down the road). When the mother died, the father farmed a few more years, then had to give it up. They kept the property, built the B&B, and the father lives in half the building, the other half has 4 guest rooms, and a large ground floor with a kitchen and eating area. It really was quite nice.

The prices were very reasonable based on what we'd seen so far. 50 euros/day for the two of us, breakfast included. There was no half board option. The rooms were very comfortable, very clean, new, and AIR CONDITIONED.

The breakfast was what we'd become accustomed to. . . basic stuff. Linda raved about the coffee. She said it was the best we'd had all trip.

The location was fine--close to the foot of Monte Grappa, which we rode on Saturday. We took the train from Castelfranco to Venice on Friday. And it was hot all the while. Even the owners were complaining about the heat and humdidity.

I would highly recommend the B&B al Lauro if you have reason to be in that vicinity. There was a nice little family-run restaurant just up the road--Al Lauro Ristorante Pizzeria. We ate there at least three times over the few days we were there.

I'd just suggest that you go before May, or after August.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Rating the Accommodations - Cortina d'Ampezzo




Hotel Aquila, June 28-June 30, 2010, 3 nights

http://www.aquilacortina.com/index_ing.php

Piazza Pittori Fratelli Ghedina, 1
Cortina d'Ampezzo, Italy

After leaving Arabba, and riding Fedaia, we planned to head to Cortina d'Ampezzo, about a half hour drive from Caprile. We had not booked a room prior to our arrival in Cortina. We planned to stop by the tourist office for some guidance. I felt goofy walking around in my cycling gear--but it turned out to be a pretty easy experience. When we arrived in Cortina, the office was still closed for their afternoon break. At 3:30 p.m., they reopened to a group of about 7-8 people looking for various tips on what to do, where to stay, etc. After a quick consultation, we headed over to Hotel Aquila to inquire about a room. They had plenty of space, we booked right away. We needed a shower!

Location: Hotel Aquila is at one end of a pedestrian only shopping zone. It was close to the road, had free parking (though not much of it), and was close to everything we needed. The traffic noise was not noticeable from the road about 100 yards away. There was a pasticceria close by! In the evenings, the locals tended to stay out late so the most noise was from the people down in the plaza talking into the later evening. No complaints about the location.

Rate: 70 euros/person/night half board. This was about what we'd been seeing most everywhere else, or within 10 euros of what we'd been seeing. Other Cortina locations were slightly more expensive and I don't know that they offered anything better.



Rooms: Hotel Aquila's rooms were some of the largest we experienced during our trip. They were not completely modern, but were certainly very comfortable and clean. Our room was on the 3rd floor, on the corner with a broad balcony on two sides of the building. The view out the bedroom's french doors were straight out to the mountains. While not as beautiful as Lake Como, the view was, nonetheless, superb.

36) 867315


: info






Food: It was okay. Hotel Aquila followed the same process as the other hotels we visited. We'd have three choices for a first course, three for an appetizer, and three for a main course. Desserts were weakest here. Breakfasts were the same basic stuff we'd seen elsewhere, just wasn't as eagerly anticipated as in other places. Of course this may have had as much to do with the growing familiarity with Euro breakfasts as with the actual quality. We didn't get sick, so it must have been fine.

Staff: The owner kept a pretty visible profile. He, his wife and a kid. Kind of an odd dude, shaved head. Nice enough, I guess. And patient with us as we worked through dinner menus. They had visitors over regularly, with their kids, and they would eat in the same dining room as we did. No problem with that, other than the kids would get to running around with cardboard or plastic swords carrying on. The guy must have changed clothes 5 times a day. Every time we'd see him he'd be wearing something different. The staff he'd hired were very nice--young folks mostly. Very friendly and seemingly eager to assist. One older gentleman ran the bar. At first I thought he was an elitist--kind of seemed to stick his nose up at everything we did. I think I just misunderstood him. Once engaged in conversation he came across as a good guy.

Expensive on the internet usage, and phone calls. I don't know how they figured how much time we'd used the computer. All the other places we'd been sold blocks of time and you knew exactly how much time you had (even as you were wasting most of it waiting for the computer to function).

Recommend? Eh--3 out 5 stars. The building was in good shape. There were pictures of it around the place in its earlier appearances. It's been kept up nicely. I have no idea how profitable it is to run a hotel like this in Italy. The family seemed okay--they usually live on premises, as this family did. I never learned this fellows name, and the conversation was never familiar enough for me to ask him. There were many, many other locations to choose from. Once recommended that we did not check into was Hotel Olimpia. They quoted a higher price, with no half board option. It had some construction going on in front of it during our stay, which certainly will cease at some point and then will make Olimpia a more likely candidate next time.

http://www.hotelolimpiacortina.com/lang1/index.html

Friday, August 6, 2010

Hemingway on Bicycling

It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle. ~Ernest Hemingway

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Rating the Accommodations - Arabba, Italy



Hotel Malita, Arabba, Italy, June 25-27 2010 3 nights.

http://www.hotelmalita.com/it/malita_ambiente.php


Via Mesdi, 54
32020, Arabba, Italy

After leaving Bormio, we headed for the Pyrenees. We had reserved spots only through to our stay in Bormio, deciding to wing-it on the remainder of the trip on assurances that we wouldn't have any trouble finding a place to stay during this time of year. This was generally true, but it was still sometimes a lengthier than necessary search depending on what we found when we got to our first locale.

After leaving Bormio, our first thought was to travel to Alleghe in the Dolomites for a feew nights. Upon arriving there, we were not captivated by the two, although its location on a small lake was nice. There was one main drag through town and it was pretty busy. We checked out 2 locations--one we didn't care for much (views front and rear weren't very good) and we tried another overlooking the lake, but they could accommodate us for just one night.

Location: So we dragged out the maps, bought some margherita pizza, some strudel, and coke, and decided where to go next. We settled on Arabba due its location smack dab on the Sella Ronda between the Pordoi and Campolongo passes. There's another town that could have served well, Corvara, but we'd heard that it was a boring town, so we didn't check it out. It would have meant another 20 minutes' drive and it was late by this time.

We checked in with the tourism office, which proved to be invaluable, told the woman attending the desk what we were looking for and she came up with several alternatives. Out of nervousness we would get aced out of a room if we didn't act quickly, we went to Hotel Malita first since it was a little closer. Another, Hotel Olympia, we could see from the road below and it looked decent, and well-visited. May be worth a try if you decide to stay in Arabba. My suggestion, though, if you want to stay ON the Sella Ronda is to check out Corvara. Arabba was nicely situated on the Sella Ronda but the town was very small with very little to do bu walk around in short circles.

Corvara was much larger and afforded a little more in the way of distractions, if you want to call them that, and the views were better.

Corvara's located between the Campolongo and Gardena passes. There are numerous other small towns here and there that could also be considered, but in terms of proximity to the Sella Ronda, these two are it.

Rate: 50 euros/person/night, mezza pensione. Hotel Olympia, I think I remember correctly, was just 45 euros/person/night. Frankly, I was a little nervous about such a low rate, fearing quality concerns, cleanliness, etc. The fears were unfounded.

Rooms: The rooms were a nice size, not particularly modern, but they were certainly adequate. No complaints. Along the back side of the hotel, where our room was, we were facing a parking lot and there was a stream running through a man-made course that made for "good splash", as Linda likes to say, but the views were not engaging. Our room happened to be right above the kitchen and we could smell both the good and the bad of its activities. A little annoying, but nothing we couldn't live with.

















Hotel Malita Bathroom--clean, adequate--I didn't try the bidet.

Food: Hotel Malita was the first one to offer granola in addition to muesli for breakfast. Their breakfast was about like all the others we encountered. Nothing extravagant, but everything that was needed. Dinners were good, which was one of the things I worried about with the price. The selections each night were enough to where we were always able to find something we liked. Malita followed the same course as Alu, three choices for a first plate, three for the main course, then dessert (plus a salad to start). Their gelato wasn't as good as Alu's.

Staff: our contacts with most of these places was the restaurant staff. Hotel Malita had a waiter and waitress that we saw each night and morning. The waiter spoke English pretty well, and the waitress could get by between my English and Spanish and her Italian. We liked them very much, no complaints here. The waiter reminded Linda of Peter Sellers--and she had a point.

Recommend: I'd recommend Corvara over Arabba, but if Arabba's where you want to be, there are worse places than Hotel Malita. And there are quite a few hotels in Arabba--a visit to the tourist office would be recommended. Malita's internet service was high at 6 euros/hour. We found another internet spot in a hotel bar across the street that was considerably cheaper, but suffered from serious computer performance issues.

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Random Notes Data & Details




2,605 kms driven in our leased Renault Kangoo, 1,618 miles.

Visited Carpentras, Bedoin, Bourg d'Oisans, Lake Como, Bormio, Arabba, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Lauro, Pagnano, Garda, Milan, and countless small towns in between on bike and in the car.


Next time, bring our own laptop. The internet cafes were fairly easy to find, but the performance of the computers was usually lacking. We'd buy an hour's worth of time and half of that would be used up waiting for pages to download. It was exasperating. Several of the machines wouldn't allow us to download photos. Also would have been very useful in investigating potential hotels.



Just about 900 miles ridden by bicycle, over 91,000 feet of climbing in 20 days of riding.

Days lost to rain: just 2



Days lost to travel: 7--3 in the air June 10-11, July 8, 3 driving from town-to-town, and 1 to Venice.



Climbs covered (most data came from http://climbbybike.com/ ):
1. Ventoux x 3:
  • Bedoin 14.1 miles, 5322 ft climbed, 7.1% avg, 12% max
  • Malaucene 13.2 miles, 5036ft climbed, 7.2% avg 12% max
  • Sault 16.0 miles, 3780 ft climbed, 4.5% avg, 11% max
2. Croix de Fer, 17.1 miles, 4239 ft climbed, 4.7% avg
3. Col du Galibier & Telegraph combined 21.7 miles, 6312 ft climbed, 5.5% avg
4. Madonna del Ghisallo from Bellagio 6.6 miles, 1811 ft climbed, 5.2% avg
5. Climb from Onno to Ghisallo via Asso 10.1 miles, 1798 ft climbed 3.4% avg
6. Varenna to Esino Lario (and beyond) 7.5 miles, 2228 ft climbed, 5.7% avg
7. Stelvio from Bormio 13.4 miles, 5030 ft climbing, 7.1% avg
8. Stelvio from Prato allo Stelvio (the more famous approach) 15.1 miles, 5932 ft climbed, 7.4% avg
9. Mortirolo (Passo di Foppa) from Mazzo di Valtellina 7.7 miles, 4265 ft climbed, 10.5% avg 18% max
10. Passo Gavia, the "race face" from Ponte di Legno 10.7 miles, 4472 ft climbed, 7.9% avg 16% max
11. Passo Fedaia from Caprile, 8.8 miles, 3475 ft climbed, 7.5% avg 18% max
12. Passo Sella (both directions) 3.4 miles, 1309 ft & 3.4 miles, 1224 ft, 7.3% avg 6.8% avg
13. Passo Campolongo (both directions) from Arabba 2.5 miles, 968 feet; from Corvara (twice) 3.9 miles, 1007 ft
14. Passo Pordoi (both directions) from Arabba 5.8 miles, 2090 ft, 6.8% avg; 8.1 miles, 2579 ft, 6% avg
15. Passo Gardena (both directions) Corvara 6.0 miles, 1965 ft, 6.2% avg, 3.7 miles, 820 ft, 4.2% avg
16. Passo Giau from Selva di Cadore, 6.1 miles, 3025 ft, 9.1% avg
17. Passo Falzarego/Valporola 10.2 miles, 2995 ft, 5.6% avg
18. Tre Croci twice 5.0 miles, 1886 ft + 1886 ft, 7.1% avg
19. Passo Sant' Antonio 5.7 miles, 4885 ft (that sounds like an awful lot of vertical feet--I think the actual is closer to Tre Croci), 7.1% avg.
20. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, 4.7 miles, 1864 ft, 7.5% avg, last 4 k avg 11.7%
21. Monte Grappa, 16.5 miles, 5141 ft, 5.9% avg
22. Peri to Fosse, 5.7 miles, 2506 ft, 8.3% avg, 15% max.

Toughest climb? Stelvio from Prato. No breaks, 15 miles. And the last 4 km of Tre Cime.



Prettiest? Stelvio was the most impressive looking climb--gotta love switchbacks. 48 of them.

Flat tires: zero


Other mechanicals: zero. On the rainy day in the Alps (le Marmotte route) the rain cleaned my chain of every last bit of lube--it was squeaking like the Tin Man in Wizard of Oz--it was embarrassing, but it held and got me back.

Strudel consumed: 4 lbs.

The worst thing about riding bicycles in Europe: the motorcycles.

Self guided or supported tour? The downside we had to the do-it-yourself route was the travel days. Despite our best intentions, we rarely rode on days we were changing hotels. We'd say we'd ride after arriving at the next city, but we never did. We did ride the morning after leaving Arabba en route to Cortina, but Cortina was not very far away. It was still a hassle finding a place on the fly.

Supported tours avoid the transfer issue because you throw your bags in the van, it moves your stuff to the next hotel, and you ride to it. Also, supported tours have food at various locations throughout a ride and provide SAG support. Do-it-yourself and you're on your own. The tour companies also have plenty of knowledge of where to ride--although they're going off itineraries that are easily duplicatable--again, except for those one-way transfer days.

However, we spent four weeks, going where we wanted to go, when we wanted to go, rode as much or as little as we wanted, and spent the same we would have spent for 7-10 days of a guided tour (including airfare). That's the big difference in favor of do-it-yourself.


4 weeks? Too long? I didn't think so from a traveling standpoint. From a practical standpoint (employment, a house to take care of, loved ones, etc.) four weeks is a long time. But I'd do it again if everything worked out. . . otherwise, our next trips probably won't exceed two weeks.

Peri to Fosse--Nearing the End, Monday July 5, 2010




After leaving the area around Monte Grappa, we headed west towards Milan, our departure city, and hoped for some cooler weather. Nothin' doin'. We ended up in Garda, on its namesake lake, Lake Garda. The whole Lake Garda thing, and the weather once we left Cortina d'Ampezzo, will have to be another entry. Suffice it to say for now that the weather was, by our standards, miserable, and the riding along the shore of Lake Garda was, shall we say, memorable.

I'd read about the climb from Peri to Fosse and knew that it was near Lake Garda. The drive from Garda to Peri was about 30 minutes. The climb features in the Gran Fondo Luca Avesani in September http://www.lascaligera.it/GFAvesani/home.htm .

Verona's just on the other side of the hill from where we started so its a busily traveled area by cyclists.

We had already dealt with heat and humidity and climbing while on Monte Grappa. Monte Grappa wasn't as bad an experience as I feared. Sure, there was a lot of sweat, but I think we had a slight reprieve that day we climbed. Our day on the Peri-Fosse climb was also warm, but not so much as to cause unnecessary concerns over hydration. We lucked out. There were clouds overhead and, after we'd reached the summit and pedaled around some, there was even some thunder nearby. Plus, though not a short climb, it wasn't a 15 mile struggle, either.

The gradient was comfortable up until a few kms from the top where you could tell it had kicked up to somewhere around the claimed 15% maximum. There are 10 switchbacks to keep track of and track your progress. Very few cars passed on the way up, or down. Once over the crest at the town of Fosse there are dozens of different directions you can go. Head directly south and you'll end up in Verona. As we did head south, we saw many a rider headed north coming from that very city. Of course, being a Monday, there were far fewer than there probably were the two days prior.

The topside of this little mount is dotted with small towns, it's really quite pretty and must be a terrific training ground for those folks headed out of the flats of Verona. Summer weather around the area, though, is U.S. southeast-like. Hot and humid. Maybe not Miami humid, but far moreso than we're accustomed to in California.

Linda and I tootled around atop the little mountain for an hour, or so, and headed back the way we'd come. It was only a 40 mile day, but it had a fun climb, great views and those lovely switchbacks. If you ever end up in Garda, or around the lake, don't waste your time fighting traffic and risking your life. There are scores of other directions to go, away from the lake, into Verona, up to Fosse, etc., that would be far more rewarding.

Friday, July 30, 2010

Rating the Accommodations - Bormio


Hotel Alu, June 22-25, 2010, 4 nights

http://www.hotelalu.it/

Via Btg. Morbegno 20
23032 Bormio, Italy

Location: right at the base of Bormio 2000m gondola. It's away from the town center, but it's a close enough walk that it's no trouble. In the town center there are plenty of places to eat and there is a market nearby. Bormio's ideally situated for Stelvio, Morirolo, Gavia, Passo del Tonale, Passo del Bernina, Livigno, etc.

Rate: 65 euros per person per day, mezza pensione (half board). Very reasonable, I thought, for a quality hotel. 50-70 euros per person per day was the going range for the time of year we were there. Rates increased towards the end of June into early July.

Rooms: Hotel Alu had the most updated, modern rooms we found on this trip. They had been completely renovated within the last couple of years and they looked great. Kind of Ikea-like, but very comfortable and just, well, clean. At the same time, maybe too sterile? It seemed a little devoid of atmosphere.


Large, clean bathroom. Didn't try the bidet.



I thought the bed was quite comfortable.


Food: Hotel Alu had, I think, the best food of the hotels we visited. Breakfast was still the usual muesli, yogurt, breads, etc., but they always had a couple of extra things. Dinners were superb. Each of these places would give a 4-course meal. Start w/salad and appetizers. Then a soup or small plate, then a main entree, then dessert. At breakfast each morning the staff left the choices for that evening's dinner. There would always be three items to choose from in each of the second and third courses. They knew we spoke English so they'd have an English version for us--they did the same for the German, Dutch, and Italian speakers. We never struck out on the choices, i.e. we were always find something that was very agreeable. For dessert, they had the best strawberry gelato I've ever tasted. And a big ol' bowl full of it, too.

Staff: The meal staff was very friendly, though they didn't speak much English. We got on well and enjoyed their service. Chiara Pedranzini of the owners and she was really the face of the hotel for us. She's young, but very good at running the business. She's very attentive, speaks English very well (as does Katia and some of the other front desk staff we dealt with).

Hotel Alu is trying to extend its reach out to cyclists, though I expect cyclists are still new for them. They are looking for ways to attract them. There were several while we there, but they had room for more. One cool thing they do is wash you r cycling gear for you. At the end of each day you bring your dirty clothes down to the front desk and they'd have it clean and dry by next morning, no charge. Unfortunately, it was limited to just the cycling clothes.

Recommend? Yes, it was a nice hotel, very good food. Great staff. Next time, though, I would be very interested in trying Hotel Funivia:

http://www.hotelfunivia.it/en_hotel.aspx

It was located just a block away from Hotel Alu. Funivia seems to be very in-tune with cyclists. While we were climbing the Stelvio we saw numerous Funivia staff, on bikes (easily recognizable in their Hotel Funivia kit), riding with guests and a Hotel Funivia van running up and down the mountain urging people on, helping with mechanicals, carrying food and gear, it was impressive. I don't know if that was a service included in room cost, or if it was extra. Funivia's rates were very similar to Alu's. Hotel Alu's trying to attract cyclists, Funivia seems to be way ahead of Alu's efforts.

Another hotel that was recommended, and looked impressive was Hotel Baita dei Pini:

http://www.baitadeipini.com/

It was a pretty location, a little closer to town. It was a little more than Alu and Funivia, but not much more--maybe 5 euros/day/person more.

So if/when we go again, Funivia's next. Then after that Baita dei Pini.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Oh no, they're here. . . .

I was checking my e-mail tonight. JC Penney had sent me an ad. . . free shipping, 15% off, etc.

I clicked on it and what showed up?


Not only the due in the red shirt, bit what's the guy in the black shirt wearing? Look almost like Capris! Okay, maybe not. But they're edging that way!

Then there was this one. Looks like there's no escaping it.

Maybe they could call them "musette's" or "courier bags".